Here's some more tests with Silicon Carbide and Strontium Crystal Magic.
SCM (with Iron) plus 0.75% SiC, Hanna's Fake Ash, and Spotted Black. The two larger mugs also have Coyote Shino and Jen's Juicy Fruit. Everything came out really well except the Juicy Fruit seems to have left craters where it was thick. It did run really nicely. The pitcher is (Laguna Babu) Porcelain, the shots are a white stoneware (Mile Hi Birch), and the mugs are a dark brown stoneware (Mile Hi Firethorn)
SCM plus 1% SiC, Hanna's Fake Ash, and Water Color Green plus 1% Cobalt. For some reason, the camera turned dark green into dark yucky brown on the two outside pots. The cups are Mile Hi Cedar, the mugs are Firethorn.
SCM plus 1 % SiC, Hanna's Fake Ash, Coyote Shino, and Jen's Juicy Fruit (without Iron) on Firethorn.
Another test with sponge applied glaze on Firethorn. SCM plus 1% SiC, Hanna's Fake Ash, and Water Color Green plus 1% Cobalt. Once again, the camera decided to turn dark green into a yucky dark brown.
Showing posts with label Cone 8 Electric. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cone 8 Electric. Show all posts
Monday, January 3, 2011
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Another Saggar Shino test
Malcolm Davis Shino saggar fired to Cone 8 in an electric kiln. I only put one piece of charcoal and about 1/3 cup of wood chips per saggar this time. The glaze was brushed on the outside of these pots. I poured Penn State Shino inside.
The only carbon trapping on the left cup was on the handle, which was right above the lump of charcoal. I guess I need to make sure to spread the charcoal out and I should probably use one and a half or two lumps in that saggar next time.
The other side of the cup on the right has almost no color (it all looks like the far right of the cup in the image above). The saggar it was in is a bit larger that the sagger used for the cup on the left and the charcoal and almost all of the wood chips were on the side that got color. I'll definitely put two lumps of charcoal in that one next time and make sure to spread the wood chips around better. It's kind of amazing to me that the atmosphere in a small sealed saggar would be so strongly affected by where the combustibles were located.
By the way, I was able to save the fiber blankets from both saggars this time by peeling them off the tops of the saggars very slowly and carefully.
The only carbon trapping on the left cup was on the handle, which was right above the lump of charcoal. I guess I need to make sure to spread the charcoal out and I should probably use one and a half or two lumps in that saggar next time.
The other side of the cup on the right has almost no color (it all looks like the far right of the cup in the image above). The saggar it was in is a bit larger that the sagger used for the cup on the left and the charcoal and almost all of the wood chips were on the side that got color. I'll definitely put two lumps of charcoal in that one next time and make sure to spread the wood chips around better. It's kind of amazing to me that the atmosphere in a small sealed saggar would be so strongly affected by where the combustibles were located.
By the way, I was able to save the fiber blankets from both saggars this time by peeling them off the tops of the saggars very slowly and carefully.
Labels:
Cone 8 Electric,
Malcolm Davis,
Penn State Shino,
Saggar,
Shino
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Electric Saggar Reduction
I made a couple of saggars for testing reduction in my electric kiln. I sprayed Malcolm Davis Shino with Redart on the outside, Coleman Tea Dust liner. (Note to self - the shino had been sitting around for a couple months)
The saggars are cylinders about 8"x8". Inside each saggars, I put about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of wood chips, three charcoal briquettes, and a pot which was raised about 5/8" from the floor of the saggar on a clay "cookie" and triangle stilts. I put a layer of SuperWool 607 HT on top of the saggar (to plug any gaps) and covered that with a kiln shelf.
These got serious reduction. The Coleman Tea Dust is basically black inside except where the pyroxene crystals formed. The other side of the pot on the right is pretty much completely black. I'll definitely try with less combustible material next time. I also need to mix up enough Shino so I can dip the pots.
One other note. The fiber blanket stuck to the top of the saggar so it was ruined. The fiber costs $1.67 per square foot if you get it from eBay so it's not a ridiculous expense, but I'll probably try a strip around the top of the saggar next time to limit the amount of waste.
Before firing...
The saggars are cylinders about 8"x8". Inside each saggars, I put about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of wood chips, three charcoal briquettes, and a pot which was raised about 5/8" from the floor of the saggar on a clay "cookie" and triangle stilts. I put a layer of SuperWool 607 HT on top of the saggar (to plug any gaps) and covered that with a kiln shelf.
These got serious reduction. The Coleman Tea Dust is basically black inside except where the pyroxene crystals formed. The other side of the pot on the right is pretty much completely black. I'll definitely try with less combustible material next time. I also need to mix up enough Shino so I can dip the pots.
One other note. The fiber blanket stuck to the top of the saggar so it was ruined. The fiber costs $1.67 per square foot if you get it from eBay so it's not a ridiculous expense, but I'll probably try a strip around the top of the saggar next time to limit the amount of waste.
Before firing...
Labels:
Coleman Tea Dust,
Cone 8 Electric,
Malcolm Davis,
Saggar,
Shino
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